Kitchen Specialists

January 1, 2013

Tile fitting

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Laying hard floor tiles

Hard tiles must be laid on as flat a surface as possible, so we make sure that the surfaces are perfectly flat. If the surface is concrete floor, a self-leveling compound will be applied, if the surface is a wooden floor, covered with floorboards, this will be covered with a 19-mm ply sub-floor. On wooden floors, our tilers uses flexible adhesives and flexible grout but for certain types of tiles, flexible adhesive and flexible grout is necessary on all floor types.

January 1, 2013

Hobs

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Fitting a hob

We take in consideration whether the position of any existing pipework needs re-routing or adjusting. When purchasing new gas appliances, you can check where the connections are. In some situations the supply pipes may need converting. You are not allowed to carry out such this work, for which you should contact us. Our CORGI-registered engineers are allowed to carry out any work on gas pipes or appliances.

Hobs are recessed into worktops using a similar technique used to fit the sink, where all gas connections will be made by our CORGI-registerd fitter. However, if you want to fit an electric hob, a spur will be wired and fused connection unit installed by our qualified electrician.

January 1, 2013

Washing Machine

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Washing Machines and Dishwashers

In many cases, washing machines and dishwashers are freestanding. However, in some kitchen designs they are housed in integral units. With a washing machine this generally means that a unit door simply covers the front of a freestanding machine. A dishwasher is actually supplied with brackets that are used for both securing the machine in position and also for securing a unit door on the front of the dishwasher.

When we fit a new washing machine or dishwasher into a new kitchen, we already have prepared all the services in place for an easy connection. In an existing kitchen, however, the electricity, water supply and drainage may need to be extended from the existing services.

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January 1, 2013

Install sink

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Installing a sink / Plumbing the sink

The trend for coloured sink has given way to practical stainless steel. Another alternatives is ceramic or Corian acrylic polymer, which incorporates the sink into a seamless worktop. This is favoured where hygiene is a critical issue since it does away with the crevices that can harbour bacteria.

We fit the taps and the overflow/waste outlet to the new sink before we place the sink on position. We then turn off the water supply to the taps and remove the old sink by dismantling the plumbing. We remove the old pipework only if the plan require to adapt the new one.

We install the new sink on its base unit or worktop, using the fittings provided; then, if needed, we seal the rim of the sink. We run a 15mm (1/2 inch) cold-water supply pipe from the rising main, and a branch pipe of the same size from the nearest hot-water pipe. Then fit miniature isolating valves in both of the supply pipes and connect them to the taps with flexible copper-tap connectors. Then, we fit the trap and run a 40mm (1and1/2 inch) waste pipe through the wall behind the base unit to the yard gully. According to the current Water Regulations, the pipe has to pass through the grid covering the gully but must stop short of the water in the gully trap. We can adapt an existing grid quite easily by cutting out one corner with a sharp hacksaw.

January 1, 2013

Sink

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Choosing a kitchen sink

Choose the sink to make the best use of available space and to suit the style of your kitchen. If you don’t have an automatic dishwasher, the kitchen sink must be large enough to cope with a considerable volume of washing-up (don’t forget to allow for larger items, such as baking ttys and oven racks). In addition, check that the bowl is deep enough to allow you to fill a bucket from the kitchen tap.

If space allows, select a unit with two bowls. If you plan to install a waste disposal unit, one of the bowls will need to have a waste outlet of the appropriate size. Some sink units have a small bowl designed for waste disposal.

A double drainer is another useful feature; if there’s no space, allow at least some room to the side of the bowl, to avoid mixing soiled and clean crockery.

One-piece sink tops are generally made to modular sizes to fit standard kitchen base units. However, many sinks are designed to be set into a continuous worktop – which offers greater flexibility in size, shape and, above all, positioning.

Choosing kitchen taps

Except for being somewhat taller, kitchen are comparable in style to those used for washbasins. They also incorporate similar mechanism and are fitted using the same methods.

A kitchen mixer, however, has an additional feature: drinking water is supplied to it from the rising main., whereas the hot water usually comes from the same storage cylinder that supplies all the other hot taps in the house. A sink mixer should have separate waterways to isolate the one supply from the other until the water emerges from the spout; otherwise, you must have special check valves to prevent possible contamination of your drinking water.

If you want a double bowl sink, choose a mixer with a swivelling spout. Some sink mixers have a hot-rinse spray attached for removing food scraps from crockery and saucepans.

Many mixers taps are supplied with small-bore copper or flexible tail pipes, which are joined to the supply pipes by a compression-joint or push-fit reducer.

January 1, 2013

Fitting the worktop / countertop

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Fitting the worktop

Fitting a straight run of worktop is reasonably straightforward. However, joining a two lengths to take a worktop a round corner requires more care, as the join needs to be perfect to create a continuous, flat finish. Corner joint steps are tipple to use, but don not provide the best finish. Better joins can be achieved if you let us use our worktop joining techniques provided by our professional worktop fitters.

Cutting a worktop length (laminate worktops, earthstone worktops or synthetic stone worktops and real wood worktops)

For a straight run, we cut the worktop to the right length, including an overhang of about 25mm (1 inch) at each end.

Joining a worktop

If the worktop has to turn to a corner, it is necessary to join two lengths. At this moment, options to joining worktops are limited by the material the worktop is made from, and whether its profile is square or rounded. The best technique and the most we use to join two lengths is the biscuit joint.

Securing a worktop

Once the worktop has been fitted, it will be secured in place using screws inserted through the worktop fixing brackets that are attached to the units and fixing wail.

Finishing Worktops

Laminated worktops

These often have unfinished edges that require covering with laminate strips supplied by the manufacturer. The strips can sometimes be ironed on, but others, will need contact adhesive. Once the strip is fixed in place and any adhesive is dry, the edges are trimmed flush using a craft knife.

Synthetic stone worktops

Sawn edges of some types of synthetic stone can be sanded smooth.

Solid wood worktops

These are the best sanded smooth, then stain-protected using the oil recommended by the worktop manufacturer. The surfaces has to be painted with several coats of oil, removing any excess with a dry cloth. Sometimes, extra oil may be required at intervals to maintain the finish.

January 1, 2013

Assembling flat-pack kitchen units

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Assembling flat-pack kitchen units

Kitchen units are one of the most popular forms of flat-pack furniture. They come in a wide array of sized and configurations, allowing to our kitchen fitter to plan and assemble a fully fitted kitchen clean, easily and fast.

Starting by unpacking and identifying all the components, we carry out a dry run, fitting the components together. Once the assembly began, glue will be applied to all exposed dowels and also, the mating panels will be brought together.

Installing base units

The work will start in the corner of the kitchen, by setting out the corner unit in position. The unit legs allow us to set out the level, therefore, the rest of the cabinets will follow the corner unit levels.

Installing the wall units

A horizontal line on the wall will be marked to indicate the level of the bottoms of the wall units above the datum line, using a spirit level. Most of the wall units are mounted using a fitting that fits inside of the top corners of the cabinets and hooks onto a special bracket on the wall. The fitting incorporated an adjustment block that allows to adjust the level of the units precisely.

January 1, 2013

Planning your Kitchen Layout

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Planning your Kitchen Layout

Planing a kitchen is a fairly complex task because of the many different factors that need to be considered. It is also an area in which strict budgeting is necessary as much of the cost of a kitchen is not in the units, but in the time and cost of the installation process, which of course, this will also depend on how much you wish to invest.

Appliances

Decide what appliances you are going to have in the kitchen. A kitchen should contain a hob and oven, a fridge, and a sink. Other options include a microwave, a dishwasher, a washing machine, a separate freezer, or a combined fridge-freezer. Of course, not all of these have to be in the kitchen – garages and utility rooms can often house appliances.

Most food preparation in the kitchen is related to the cooker, the sink and the fridge. Generally a triangular layout of the three essentials is considered ideal – access is straightforward, and there is room for preparation or storage beside each area.

It is best not to position your fridge next to your cooker as the fridge will have to work harder because of the warm air around it when the cooker is on.

If you want an island unit in your design, it is best if it does not block your route between sink, fridge and cocker. An electrical supply for an island unit can be run underfloor easily, especially if you are fitting a new floor anyway. However, plumbing for an island unit is more difficult because the gradient of the waste pipes need to be accommodated beneath the floor, and this is often impractical in many cases.

Storage

Storage for food, utensils, and cleaning products is useful in a kitchen. The greater the number of units, the more crowded a kitchen will feel, but too little storage space may be frustrating, so a compromise will usually need to be sought.

Worktops

Worktops are essential for both food preparation and to accommodate electrical appliances such as kettles, coffee makers and freestanding microwaves.

Worktops can also provide an eating space, in the for of a breakfast bar, for example. The underside can be left open, or peninsular units can be fitted below. In the latter, a wide section of worktop provides a large overhang.

Using your supplier

Once you have formulated some ideas about what design and style you are looking for, the next step is to speak to your supplier. The supplier will take accurate measurements of the room and produce a computer-generated design to give you a good idea of what your kitchen will look like.

Some manufactures have kitchens in stock, but with others may take weeks or even months to come through. Bear this in mind in overall planning when considering any necessary structural change requirements and re-routing of services.

We know how crucial is coordinating the delivery of materials to your project and we advise you to plan well ahead and confirm delivery dates.

Typical Kitchen Layouts

In smaller kitchens, the size and shape of the room will often dictate the layout. In larger rooms there are more options to consider. Typical kitchen unit layouts are single run, L-shaped, or U-shaped, and many include island units, breakfast bars, and dining areas. Most kitchen variations on one of these examples:

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L-shaped layout

This layout has units along all or part of two adjoining walls. In a larger kitchen this may allow room for a dining area in the kitchen. This layout provides ample storage space and floor space and is therefore ideal for a busy family life.

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U-shaped layout

Here units cover three walls, and in a larger room one length of the U may be used as a breakfast bar. In a small kitchen, this layout provides maximum storage and appliance capacity, but standing room is limited. It is always best to keep the fridge close to the door.

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Gallery layout

This design uses straight runs of units on opposing walls in a narrow kitchen. As in the U-shaped layout on the left, floor space may be limited, but wall space is used to its maximum potential.

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Island layout

This type of layout tends to be used either in large kitchens or as a design feature in smaller ones. When appliances are fitted in an island, the “work triangle” theory doesn’t apply. Routing supplies may be tricky with this layout design.

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Health & Safety Risk Assessment

First Stage: Demolition & Preparation

Sockets and Lights

The worktop surface

The laminate worktop installation

The solid wood worktop installation

The Corian worktop installation

Wall Tiles and Floor Covering

Decoration. Almost finished...

The kitchen installation

Other essential items before we finish.

Final cost

Fitting a hob

Washing Machines and Dishwashers

Choosing a kitchen sink

Choosing kitchen taps

Fitting the worktop

Joining a worktop

Finishing Worktops

Assembling flat-pack kitchen units

Installing base units

Installing the wall units

Planning your Kitchen Layout

Appliances

Storage

Worktops

Using your supplier

Typical Kitchen Layouts

L-shaped layout

U-shaped layout

Gallery layout

Island layout

Services

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